Dilliwalas believe that you either have ‘Haath main lazzat or you don’t!’ While some just rustle up anything and it turns out to be delicious, others may work hard at cooking but don’t get it right. On being asked for recipes, Sadia Dehlvi’s grandmother would leave out an ingredient or two to ensure no one made the dish better than her. These secret family recipes have been coaxed out of relatives. Biryani, Yakhni Pulao, Strew, Shaami Kebabs, Qeemas and Qormas - these dishes, much like their taste, have a history and Sadia brings them to life with anecdotes from her own rich experience. The author and columnist’s love for the city of Jinss reflects in her extensive knowledge of the city’s tastes and the outside influences which have changed it.